Starting Garden Plants From Seed

I love to garden! There is nothing more satisfying that planting tiny seeds and nurturing them until they produce lots of beautiful produce. I also love to can the produce out of my garden. In order to have enough produce to eat fresh and preserve for the cold winter months, I need to plant tomato and pepper plants on a grand scale. I usually plant between 20 - 24 tomato plants and 28 - 30 assorted pepper plants. HELLO SALSA! Buying this many plants at the local nursery can get a little bit pricey. To offset the cost, I have learned to start my plants from seed. It is actually quite simple.

 

You will need a few supplies:
 

1. Containers to plants the seeds in
2. Potting oil or Seed Starting Mix
3. Water
4. Seeds
5. Markers to identify the variety of your plants
6. Clear container to create a green house

Seeds should be started six to eight weeks before you want to plant them in your garden. I live in Zone 5. I usually plant most of my garden Memorial Day weekend. The frosts have passed and the days are warm enough by then.

Egg cartons are great for starting seeds in (they can be planted directly into the ground because they are biodegradable). Just poke a hole in the bottom of each well with a large nail for drainage.

Plastic yogurt cups are a wonderful, too and free. Just poke a couple of holes in the bottom for drainage. Peat cups are also good and usually cheap. Watch the clearance tables at the end of the summer. You can nab them for next to nothing. I also have saved the black plastic pots from previous years trips to the green house. Lots of times if you can get them for free by asking a salesperson at the nursery if they have any they are going to throw away. If so stock up and save them for later.

 

Watch for sales on potting soil or seed starting mix. I usually use potting soil, but sometimes starter mix is cheaper. Just make sure the soil contains a fertilizer to feed the plants as they grow.

 

 

Fill each of the pots with soil. Fill them clear to the top. Water the soil until it is damp. The soil will settle a little bit. You only want the soil to be 1/2 inch below the rim of the pot, so that the seedling will be able to get plenty of sunshine. If it settles more than that add in a little more dirt.

 

Next place two seeds on top of the damp soil in each pot. Push them down gently about 1/4 inch and cover with the damp potting mix. You are planting an extra seed in case one does not grow. If they both grow simply pull out the smaller of the two plants. Make sure to mark what each variety of plant is! Believe me all tomato plants look alike. I use wooden craft sticks (a.k.a. popsicle sticks). Just write the variety on the stick with permanent marker (non permanent ink runs if the stick gets wet).

 

 

I like to cover my seeds with a clear plastic cover. This creates a green house effect, keeping the germinated seeds warm and helps retain moisture. You can buy plant starting kits anywhere they sell garden seed and plants. I am cheap so I sometimes use leftover bakery and large (Costco size) deli containers.  As the plants grow you can prop up the clear lid. You don't want the plants to touch the lid it will stunt there growth. Once your seedlings are about 3 inches tall and leafing out, you can remove the lid. Also, notice the shelf in front of the French door. That particular window gets sun from about 1:00pm until the sun sets; making it the perfect warm, sunny place for little seedlings to grow. The shelf is metal which also helps keep the plants warm. Plants will grow towards their source of light, so turn your plant around if they are leaning to much. That way they will continue to grow straight.

 

It is very important that the soil remains damp, but not overly saturated while the seeds are growing. The soil should feel wet, but not ooze moisture. If it is crumbly it is too dry. Misting them daily with a spray bottle is a good idea, until they are 2 -3 inches tall. Then you can gently pour water around the plant 3 - 4 times a week.

 

Now just sit back and wait impatiently for all of your tiny little seedlings to start popping through the soil. You should see them 7 - 10 days after you have planted them.

 

 

 

 

Container Gardening

Gardening is a great way to offset your grocery budget by producing some of your own produce. If your garden plot is large enough, you can can, dry, or freeze the excess to enjoy later. However, not all of us are able to garden on a grand scale. Many do not want to dig up existing lawn or landscaping to provide space for a garden plot. Others are not physically able to keep up with a large garden.

That is where container gardening comes in. It is an ideal solution for those of us who want to grow a few veggies, but do not have space or time for a large scale garden. I am a passionate gardener (a.k.a. farm girl wanna be), but my yard is not large. I have had to get creative with my gardening (but that is a whole nother post). One of the way I increase my garden yield is with container gardening. For me it's ideal to grow things in pots that don't grow well in my soil, freeing up space to grow other things in my garden plot that do.

 I had the opportunity to teach a container gardening class last week for the Lady's organization at Church. I had a fabulous time sharing my passion with my friends and neighbors. I passed out a hand out that explained the basics of starting a container garden. If you are interested in doing a little gardening this summer, and need some help or ideas you can print it out below.

Container Gardening 101

Vegetables that grow well in containers

1)    In 5 gallon buckets

a)     Tomatoes ( use a tomato cage to prevent plant falling over and breaking)

b)    Peppers, all varieties

2)    In large plastic totes at least 24 inches deep       

a)     Carrots

b)    Beets

c)     Onions

d)    Herbs that grow tall (cilantro, dill, lemongrass, etc.)

e)     Green beans, peas, or cucumbers (must be  trellised unless a bush variety)

f)      Zucchini or yellow squash (one seed per bucket a little goes a long way with these squash)

g)     Turnips

3)    In large plastic totes 12 inches deep or  large flower pots

a)     Lettuce, all varieties

b)    Spinach

c)     Herbs that do not grow tall (basil, thyme, oregano, parsley, chives, etc.)

d)    Strawberries

e)     Cabbage

f)      Broccoli

g)     Radishes

Special needs of plants grown in containers

1)    Plants will need frequent watering to maintain healthy growth

a)     Soil should be moist but not waterlogged (squeeze it with your hand if water drips out it’s too wet).

b)    If your potting soil does not contain fertilizer in it, mixing in additional steer manure is necessary (it’s sold in bags at any store that sells potting soil).

c)     Check soil daily.

d)    A light layer of mulch around your plants will help the moisture to remain in the soil longer.

2)    Trellis plants that climb to prevent disease, breakage, and improve yields

a)     Poles ¾ to 1 inch in diameter and 6 feet long (remember at least a foot of the pole should be in the soil to prevent the plant falling over). Tie plant loosely with string as it grows.

b)    PVC pipe and string trellis (this is good for beans and peas)

c)     Teepee style trellis made with ¾ inch poles and twine

d)    Poles and rabbit fence trellis

3)    Use lighter colored totes. Dark totes can absorb too much heat and burn the plants.

4)    Set containers in an area that is shielded from harsh wind. Next to fences, the house or garage, or decks. High winds can break top heavy plants when they start to produce fruit.

5)    Harvest your garden frequently. Plants will produce a better yield if fruits are picked as soon as they mature.

a)     Pick outer lettuce and spinach leaves leaving inner leaves intact. The plant will produce longer.

b)    Broccoli will produce side shoots after main head is harvested.

c)     Cucumbers, peppers, and tomatoes will produce more fruit as mature fruits are harvested.

6)    If your potting soil does not contain fertilizer in it, mixing in additional steer manure is necessary (it’s sold in bags at any store that sells potting soil). Adding additional fertilizer during the growing season is necessary if plants are not thriving. Miracle Grow granules are good.

a)     Soil can be reused each year if properly sterilized and new manure or compost mixed in.

b)    To sterilize soil cover container with clear plastic and allow the soil to heat up (75 to 80 degrees) for several days before planting.

c)     Soil will settle and need to be turned over with a shovel prior to planting.

 

Companion planting

1)    Plant fast growing crops with slow growing crops. The fast growing crops will be harvested by the time the slow growers are maturing and taking up the room in the container.

2)    Fast growing crops produce fruit in a short growing cycle (fruit will be ready for harvest after 4 – 8weeks).

a)     Lettuce

b)    Spinach

c)     Radishes

3)    Slow growing crops produce fruit after a longer growing cycle (fruit will be ready for harvest after 10 – 20 weeks of growth)

a)     Beans, peas

b)    Zucchini, yellow squash

c)     Carrots, beets, onions

d)    Cabbage, broccoli

e)     Dill, cilantro, parsley, basil, etc.

When to plant your vegetable

1)    The last frost date for our area is between May 1 – 31

2)    Plants are classified as very tender, tender, semi hardy, and hardy

3)    Very tender plants should be planted two weeks after last frost

a)     Cucumbers, peppers , zucchini, and yellow squash

4)    Tender plants should be planted on or just after last frost date

a)     Beans, tomatoes, strawberries, most herbs

5)    Semi Hardy and hardy plants can be planted one to two weeks before the last frost date in containers.

a)     Beets, onions, carrots

b)    Spinach, lettuce, kale, and chards

c)     Cabbage, broccoli

d)    Peas, radishes, turnips

Where to place your containers

1)    Different plants like different amounts of heat and sunlight

2)    Plants that like heat and full sun

a)     Tomatoes

b)    Pepper plants

c)     Beans, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, and Swiss chard, and strawberries

d)    Zucchini and yellow squash

3)    Plants that like partial sun/ shade

a)     Beets, carrots, onions, turnips

b)    Radishes, peas, lettuce, and spinach

c)     Most herbs

Prepping your containers

1)    Drill holes in the bottom of your container to improve circulation and moisture evaporation.

a)     Use a large drill bit to create 1 – 11/2 inch holes

b)    Space holes every four to six inches

2)    Place containers on pallets, bricks, or scrap wood to improve circulation

3)    Fill container a third full with of filler.

a)     Gardening rocks, straw, or styro foam pellets will work well.

b)    Filler allows for drainage and decreases the amount of soil needed reducing cost.

4)    Lay a barrier over filler layer

a)     Screen, burlap, or old cotton t shirts work well

b)    Barriers prevent soil from seeping through the rocks

5)    Fill  the container  with soil

a)     I recommend Miracle Grow potting mix

b)    Fill the container to within three to four inches from the top. Soil will settle.

6)    Plant your plants or seeds and water well.

7)    If necessary, protect tender plants from frost by covering them with milk jugs without the lid.

 

 



Make Your Own Yogurt

 



 

 

If your house is like mine we go through a lot of  yogurt. It's a favorite for breakfast, snacks, or in smoothies. Yogurt is extremely healthy, and versatile. It can be used to replace buttermilk or sour cream in recipes, has a long shelf life, and is just generally full of creamy goodness. The cost does add up quickly if you have a family who likes it. One six ounce carton of store brand yogurt is roughly $.38 each, a thirty two ounce container of Greek yogurt is around $3.99. If you make your own it will cost you about $.87 for thirty two ounces. That's a $3.12 savings!

If it seems daunting to make your own, I can assure you it is one of the easiest things I have done in the kitchen. It takes a little time, but it is well worth it for the savings aspect. I have tried several methods, but always go back to The Frugal Girl's method. It is easy and fairly fool proof. You can find an excellent  step by step tutorial HERE. She explains it much better than I can. I usually make my yogurt with 2% milk so I add in 1/2 powdered milk to my recipe, so that it is fairly firm. My kids don't like runny yogurt. Also, if you will be using your homemade yogurt in place of sour cream. Pour some of the plain yogurt mixture into glass jars before you add the sugar and vanilla. Make sure to label that jar! Your family might freak out if your sour cream enchilada recipe suddenly starts having a sweet vanilla flavor.

I have also made this recipe using reconstituted powdered milk in place of fresh milk. It works well. Just reconstitute the powdered milk with warm water following the ratios on the box of milk powder. Heat the reconstituted milk to 185 degrees and continue following the recipe for fresh milk.

This yogurt is delicious added to fresh fruit and granola. My kids like it with mixed with a big scoop of strawberry or raspberry freezer jam (not as healthy, but very tasty!). I like it blended with frozen berries, avocado, and spinach in smoothies.

Now it's your turn! Give yogurt making a try and report back in the comments section below. How do you like your yogurt?